Black, glossy and undeniably eye-catching, onyx and obsidian sit side by side in many a jewellery box — and from arm's length they can be almost impossible to tell apart. Yet these two dark stones are about as different as two gems can be. One is a variety of quartz; the other is cooled lava. Knowing which is which matters when you are choosing a ring you intend to wear every single day, or deciding how best to look after a treasured pendant.
Here is a practical guide to both, and to the small clues that give each one away.
Both stones are opaque, both take a high, glassy polish, and both are commonly cut into cabochons, beads, signet-style plaques and carved cameos. The naming tradition does not help. The word onyx originally described any stone with parallel layers of colour, and it has been borrowed freely over the centuries for anything dark and polished. Much of the "black onyx" sold today began life as pale grey chalcedony before being dyed, so a shopper comparing dyed onyx with natural black volcanic glass sees two very similar-looking objects. The differences only become obvious once you know what each stone is made of.
Onyx is a variety of chalcedony, which itself is microcrystalline quartz — silicon dioxide, the same chemistry as amethyst, citrine and rock crystal. The difference is the crystal size: the grains in chalcedony are so tiny that they cannot be seen with the naked eye, which gives the stone its dense, waxy, tough character.
Obsidian is not a mineral at all but a mineraloid: natural volcanic glass. When silica-rich lava cools so quickly that its atoms never get the chance to arrange themselves into a crystal lattice, the result is a glass — hard, smooth and slightly brittle.
If you have both stones loose, a few gentle checks will usually settle the question.
For a ring or bracelet that will see daily knocks, onyx is the safer choice — harder, tougher and far more resistant to scratching and chipping. Its one weakness is the dye used on most black material, so keep it away from acetone, nail varnish remover, bleach and prolonged soaking. Warm water with a drop of mild washing-up liquid and a soft brush is ample, then dry with a lint-free cloth.
Obsidian is better suited to pendants, earrings, brooches and occasional-wear rings. It scratches more easily, chips on impact and should never go into an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Store it in its own soft pouch rather than loose in a jewellery box, and wipe it with a dry microfibre cloth after wearing to keep the shine.
Both stones share a long history in mourning jewellery and talismanic pieces, and both look superb set in silver, oxidised metal or yellow gold. Choose onyx when you want durability and a deep, even black; choose obsidian when you love the glassy depth and the subtle, shifting character of a volcanic original.
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